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Load image into Gallery viewer, Gardner Bender HSB-28 Cable Splice Kit, 8-2 AWG, Black
  • Load image into Gallery viewer, Gardner Bender HSB-28 Cable Splice Kit, 8-2 AWG, Black
Vendor
Gardner Bender

Gardner Bender HSB-28 Cable Splice Kit, 8-2 AWG, Black

4.0
Regular price
€44,00
Sale price
€44,00
Regular price
€72,00
Sold out
Unit price
per 
Save 39% (€28,00)
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  • Tracked Shipping on All Orders
  • 14 Days Returns

Description

  • Contains one slotted set-screw splice connector and one 4" heavy-wall polyolefin heat shrinkable tube
  • Rated at 600 volts maximum
  • AWG 8 minimum to AWG 2 maximum
  • Carded

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Customer Reviews

i was disappointed--I THOT I WAS BUYING A KIT TO ... i was disappointed--I THOT I WAS BUYING A KIT TO SPLICE MY WATER PUMP WIRES.THIS IS FOR 1 (ONE) WIRE--I WOULD NEED 3 FOR MY 220V PUMP.THAT WOULD MAKE THE TOTAL COST OVER $24. NOPEI ORDERED ANOTHER KIT WITH 4 CONNECTERS AND HEAT SHRINK TUBE FOR $8.THE WORD "KIT" FOOLED ME. 3Absolutely nothing wrong with the product - the repairman, however.... The product is fine but I had to learn a lesson the hard way. If you fully tighten both setscrews on one or more of the 4 bushings and then twist the electric cable back and forth to try to line up the remaining wires to slide them into the remaining bushings, then the bushings you've already tightened can rotate inside the hard plastic holder such that the setscrews become inaccessible to a screwdriver. As long as you leave at least one of the two setscrews per bushing sticking out beyond the plastic barrel that holds the bushings in position, the bushing can't rotate, and the connector works just the way it's supposed to. A more flexible wire probably wouldn't have been able to rotate the bushings, but I was re-connecting a very stiff, buried 4-conductor #10 wire cable that I had nicked with a shovel and working conditions were cramped in the 4' deep hole. 4Solid splice kit -- no issues with heat shrink tubing, here... I'm not sure what others are complaining about when it comes to the heat shrink tubing. Perhaps they've just not worked with heat shrink tubing much?I ordered three of these to do code-compliant splices of a 10/3 run, a 14/3 run, and a 14/2 run ... all of which exceeded 250 feet and, thus, needed to be spliced in order to use standard cable rolls instead of purchasing it by the foot.I took my time and was in no hurry with the splices. I elected to do the 10/3 run first since it would need the least shrinkage on the tubing and I could take my time to gauge how much heat could be applied safely. This stuff begins to shrink around 200F, but you must heat a fair amount of it to get it to begin to shrink. I used an electric heat gun with temperature control on it and found that by setting the gun at 600F and holding the nozzle approximately 1.5" from the tubing and fanning it back/forth along the tubing in 3-4" wide strokes, I could get it to shrink fairly readily.I heated 1/4 side of the outside of the tubing cylinder ... starting in the center and working outward to the ends. Once that quarter section had shrunk, I did the next quarter section ... then the third quarter section, then the fourth -- each time working from the center of the tubing, outward. I shrunk it in stages, too ... meaning I didn't try to get maximum shrinkage in each quarter; instead, I shrunk it a bit at a time for all four quarters of the cylinder ... and then re-shrunk it again. I did this to promote even-ness in shrinkage along all quarters ... to avoid holes or weak spots in the tubing.Since I was being careful and trying to find the correct temperature to use with my gun on this tubing, the first use of the heat gun took ~10 mins ... on the largest of my wires. However, once I had a known good temperature, I was able to shrink the others in ~3 minutes after putting the splice hardware in place.I had no issue with the 14/3 or the 14/2. The tubing shrunk enough for it. Key to this was the adhesive inside of it, which melts. I made sure to wear insulated leather gloves during the heating process so that as I was finishing up the shrinking of the tubing I could squeeze it together and feel the adhesive flow and set -- making sure there were no open air pockets or bubbles in the adhesive (that could result in easy puncture points later, during or after burial).These kits served me well and I will buy/use them again if I need to make code-compliant underground splices in the future. 5This is a pretty useful kit for anybody looking to do a clean ... This is a pretty useful kit for anybody looking to do a clean 2 gauge or smaller splice. 2 gauge will fit in TIGHT. You might have to feed a few loose wires in the splice using needle nose pliers. The screws screw down pretty tight. That was my biggest concern with this kit since the thread depth is very short. Just don't use a power tool to tighten down the screws. The shrink tube is the best shrink tubing I have ever used. Easy to shrink and thick. 4Hot garbage. 1. The set screws are tiny and easily strip.2. The heat shrink tubing is thicker than a garden hose and REQUIRES a strong heat gun, or it will not shrink at all.3. It does not actually shrink enough to make a water tight seam, and if you keep trying it just burns.4. RETURNING it with chunks of wire attached so they see how bad their product performs. 1Fantasitic Product This is golden. I repaired a damaged cable for my front yard post light while the temperature was in high 30's and dropping to near freezing by the time I was done due to an ensuing cold front. My Wagner heat gun still was able to heat it up enough on the high setting to shrink it perfectly to see the glue ooze from the ends which signifies a good fit. It is very easy to install. The hardest part is stripping the RG cable with a box blade but I got it done with a steady hand under extreme conditions. What an experience, stripping the cable and trying to beat the freeze with the shrink tubing. 5So far so good! I repaired an underground cable supplying power to a yard light about two months ago. This cable had been causing problems since I apparently nicked the insulation while planting some shrubs. I tried various methods of splicing but none of them worked for long. I actually repaired two splices on the cable using this product and so far, so good. However, I did not bury the cable, but left it exposed. In the last two months we have had a series of heavy rains, snow storms, and ice storms and it still works. I will bury the cable at the first opportunity and then we'll see how it truly works. Since I repaired two splices, I had the opportunity to use two methods of heating the splice. I used a heat gun on one splice and a propane torch on another one. Both worked but I prefer the propane torch. You have to be careful with both methods as you can apply too much heat and burn the splice. The propane torch concentrates the heat better and it gets hotter, but you have to be more careful. 4Seal Needs Help This supposedly waterproof connector isn't. The connector is made of brass and seems to be a very good connector. The heat shrink tubing comes in two pieces. One is shorter than the other and slips inside the longer one. Unfortunately, the tubing does not shrink sufficiently. In order to make the connection waterproof, I had to fill the void with a liquid rubber. I used a heat shrink gun to shrink the tubing. 3for the better, I think Copper wire only! Amazon never said this and I looked right at a brass butt connector intended for aluminum wire. Duh! The brass butt clamp has changed, for the better, I think. The product image shows a concentric bore: It's now eccentric, the bore is bigger and the set screws are bigger. L = 1.500''; O.D. = 0.500''; I.D. = 0.320''; Wall thickness - 0.037'' thin side, 0.137'' thick side; set screw diameter = 0.366''. For reference, nominal diameters of 2awg = 0.2576''; 1awg = 0.2893''; 0awg = 0.3249''. I ended up getting the aluminum butt connector with gel pack (from Amazon) and I used Neolox applied to the interstices before clamping. 5Too large for 14/2 plus ground UF wire Written by my husband.As others have noted, once the heat shrink is shrunk it is too large. So, here are some specifics that should have been included in the product description. The brass connector block is about 23mm (15/16") diameter. The pre-shrunk inner diameter of the heat-shrink tube is about 34mm (1 and 15/16"). The post-shrunk inner diameter is about 9mm (3/8"). A 14/2 UF cable is rectangular(ish) in shape about 5/16" x 3/16". So, the post-shrunk size is just a little too big to make a water tight seal on a 14/2 UF cable. What I did, was I purchased another heat-shrink tube and shrunk it onto the UF cable first. This tube was: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z3ZEJW which has a pre-shrunk I.D. of 3/4" and a post-shrunk I.D. of 2/16" but its wall thickness gets as big as 2/16" as it shrinks. So, on the 14/2 UF cable, once this tube was shrunk, the 14/2 had an approximate O.D. a little over 1/2". This enabled me to shrink the tube of this kit onto the other tube making a water tight seal. If you do this, make sure this kit's tube (the larger tube) overlaps the smaller tube by several inches but does not completely cover the smaller tube (a few inches of the smaller tube should still be visible). 4
Gardner Bender HSB-28 Cable Splice Kit, 8-2 AWG, Black

Gardner Bender HSB-28 Cable Splice Kit, 8-2 AWG, Black

4.0
Error You can't add more than 500 quantity.
Regular price
€44,00
Sale price
€44,00
Regular price
€72,00
Sold out
Unit price
per 
Save 39% (€28,00)